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Florence — the guide locals would write.

Florence is small and absurdly dense. Two days does the job if you book ahead. Three lets you live a little. The trick is to pace the museums — one major one a day, max — and let the city happen between them.

Best time to visit: April–May, September–October · Avg. trip: 2–3 days · Currency: EUR

Why people fall for Florence

Florence's historic center is a 30-minute walk end-to-end. Walk it slowly. The Renaissance happened here in part because the city is small enough that all the artists, bankers, and patrons knew each other personally. You can feel that compression.

It's also a city of trattorias and aperitivo, where the wine is local (Chianti is 30 minutes away) and the food is hyper-regional. Order the bistecca alla fiorentina once. Order the ribollita twice.

Top attractions (the ones worth your time)

Not everything famous deserves the queue. Here's what we'd actually do.

Uffizi Gallery

€252 hoursBook ahead

Botticelli, Caravaggio, Leonardo. Book online — same-day tickets are a queue you don't want. Don't try to see everything; pick 4 rooms.

Duomo (Brunelleschi's Dome)

Climb €30

Climb the dome (463 steps, no elevator, book ahead). Or just admire it from outside — it costs nothing.

Accademia (David)

€1645 min

Michelangelo's David. Book the 8:15am opening slot. The other rooms are skippable; David is the moment.

Ponte Vecchio

Free

The covered medieval bridge with goldsmiths. Walk it twice — sunset and after dark.

Pitti Palace + Boboli Gardens

€16 / €10

Cross the river. The gardens are the highlight; the palace is dense and tiring.

Piazzale Michelangelo

FreeSunset

Best free view of Florence. 20-minute walk up. Sunset is the moment, but go an hour before to get a spot.

Santa Croce

€8

Burial place of Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli. Surprisingly under-loved.

Bargello

€11

Sculpture museum in a former prison. Donatello + Michelangelo, fewer crowds than the Uffizi.

San Miniato al Monte

FreeClimb

Romanesque church above Piazzale Michelangelo. Even better view, and 6:30pm Gregorian chant if monks are in.

Mercato Centrale

Market

Ground floor: real market. Upper floor: food court. Avoid the upper floor at lunch — go for the ground floor at 9am.

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Hidden gems (curated by locals)

Submitted monthly by 3 Florence contributors. Verified open, last updated 2026-05-05.

Trattoria Mario

San Lorenzo

Lunch only, no reservations, communal tables. Bistecca alla fiorentina that locals queue for. Cash only.

Procacci

Centrum

1885. Truffle sandwiches + Prosecco. Standing only. Time travel.

All'Antico Vinaio

Centrum

World-famous schiacciata sandwich. Queue from 11am. Worth one visit.

La Sorbettiera

Centrum

The gelato locals go to. Made daily, real ingredients, not the touristy mountains.

Casa del Vino

San Lorenzo

Wine bar with cured meats, family-run since 1875. Standing-only counter.

Cuculia

€€Oltrarno

Bookshop + restaurant on the Arno. Modern Tuscan, fair prices.

Le Volpi e l'Uva

Oltrarno

Wine bar with cheese + cured meats. Tucked behind Ponte Vecchio.

Free things to do

Florence's free moves are powerful — many of its best moments cost nothing.

  • Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset
  • San Miniato al Monte (entry free; climb is free)
  • Walking Ponte Vecchio + the river
  • Florence Cathedral interior (free; only the dome climb is paid)
  • Mercato Centrale ground floor
  • Boboli Gardens free first Sunday of the month
  • Most churches free entry: Santa Maria Novella interior, San Lorenzo cloister
  • Free first Sunday at all state museums
  • Walk along the Arno from Ponte alla Carraia to Ponte alle Grazie
  • Aperitivo culture — €10 spritz includes free buffet 6–9pm at most bars

Where to eat without paying tourist tax

Florence punishes the unprepared with tourist-trap menus. Lunch menus and tiny wine bars rescue.

Trattoria Mario

San Lorenzo

€15 for a real Tuscan lunch.

Sandwicheria All'Antico Vinaio

Centrum

€8 schiacciata.

Da Burde

€€Slightly out

Locals' lunch spot. Lampredotto sandwiches a Florentine institution.

I Fratellini

Centrum

Hole-in-the-wall sandwich shop since 1875. €4 sandwich + glass of wine.

3 days in Florence: the itinerary we'd run

One option of many — open the app to swap, reorder, or stretch to 5 days.

Day 1 — Renaissance day

  1. 8:15am — Accademia (David).
  2. 9:30am — Coffee at Caffè Gilli (Piazza della Repubblica).
  3. 10:30am — Duomo + Brunelleschi's Dome climb (booked).
  4. 12:30pm — Lunch at Trattoria Mario.
  5. 2pm — Uffizi Gallery (booked, 2pm slot is calmer).
  6. 5pm — Walk Ponte Vecchio.
  7. 6:30pm — Aperitivo at Procacci.
  8. 8pm — Dinner at Cuculia.

Day 2 — Oltrarno + view

  1. 9am — Pitti Palace + Boboli Gardens.
  2. 12pm — Lunch at All'Antico Vinaio.
  3. 1pm — Walk Oltrarno: Santo Spirito → San Frediano.
  4. 3pm — Bargello sculpture museum.
  5. 5pm — Walk up to Piazzale Michelangelo.
  6. 7pm — Sunset at San Miniato al Monte.
  7. 9pm — Dinner at Trattoria Sostanza (book a week ahead) or 4 Leoni.

Day 3 — Slow Florence + Tuscany option

  1. Option A: Day trip to Siena + San Gimignano.
  2. Option B: Stay in Florence — Santa Croce + Bargello + slow morning.
  3. If staying: lunch at Casa del Vino, afternoon coffee at La Ménagère.
  4. Aperitivo at Le Volpi e l'Uva.
  5. Final dinner: La Giostra (book ahead) or any neighborhood trattoria you've spotted.

What's on in Florence this season

Florence has a calendar built around art + food.

  • Calcio Storico (June) — medieval football tournament in Santa Croce square
  • Pitti Uomo (January + June) — men's fashion week
  • Tuscan Sun Festival (summer)
  • Festa di San Giovanni (June 24) — patron saint, fireworks over the Arno
  • Maggio Musicale Fiorentino (May–June)
  • Christmas markets in Piazza Santa Croce (Dec)

Practical Florence (no fluff)

Getting in

Florence airport (FLR): T2 tram to Santa Maria Novella (€1.70, 25 min) — best option. Or take the train from Pisa airport (PSA), which is often cheaper to fly into.

Getting around

Walk. The historic center is small. Buses fill in for longer trips (€1.70 single).

Where to stay

First time: anywhere within the historic walls. Cool: Oltrarno (cooler, less touristy, walkable to center). Avoid: anything beyond the train station unless on a tight budget.

Money

Cards everywhere — except a few old trattorias (Mario is cash-only). Tipping: not expected; rounding up is a kind gesture.

Florence FAQ

How many days do you need in Florence?

Two full days for major sights, three to live a little, plus optional Tuscany day.

Is the Uffizi worth it?

Yes — but pick 4 rooms. Most travelers spend 4 hours and remember nothing. Book the 2pm slot for fewer crowds.

Should I climb the Dome?

Yes — but book online weeks ahead. 463 steps, no elevator. The view is the moment.

When's the best time?

April–May and September–October. July–August is too hot. December has fewer crowds + Christmas markets.

Best gelato?

La Sorbettiera or Vivoli. Avoid mountains of gelato in plastic bins — that's tourist gelato.

Is Florence safe?

Yes — but pickpockets at the train station and around major sights. Phone in front pocket.

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